Luxury watchmaking often sits at the border of art and excess, but every now and then a brand pushes it into pure theater. The new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights of the Round Table “The Enchanter Merlin” is one of those creations. It is over the top, dramatic, and unlike anything else on the market. Yet it is also deeply fascinating, both technically and artistically.
Having spent more than a decade handling some of the world’s most extravagant watches, my wish list has grown shorter, not longer. I now care less about watches that will sit in a safe and more about watches that I can imagine someone actually wearing. And yes, against all odds, the Merlin makes the cut.
A Watch Inspired by Arthurian Legend
This latest Knights of the Round Table edition belongs to Book IV: The Tale of Merlin. The story comes to life on the dial, which is inspired by the crystal palace Merlin created for the Lady of the Lake. The watch does not just tell time; it stages a miniature drama in gold, enamel, and diamonds.
Around the dial stand twelve golden knights, each six millimeters tall and each individually sculpted. Despite their size, the detailing is remarkable. Viewed under magnification, they still look fierce, alive, and ready for battle.
The Dial as Micro-Architecture
The center of the dial contains 56 blocks of pink gold, glass, enamel, and white gold, with hexagonal diamonds set into some of them. The blocks are arranged to create a sense of depth and perspective, turning the face into a micro-sculpture. Between these elements lies Crystalium®, a ruthenium-based material said to be 165 times rarer than gold.
The effect is breathtaking. Every surface reflects light differently. The polished tops of the gold hexagons, the mirror-like bases of the diamonds, and the glowing white enamel combine into a kaleidoscope of shifting colors and reflections. It is one of the most three-dimensional dials in contemporary watchmaking.
Case and Presence
The pink gold case measures 45mm wide and 16.87mm thick. It is large, bold, and unapologetic. This is not a discreet piece to slip under a cuff. It is meant to be seen, whether at a private club in Hong Kong or on the deck of a yacht in the Mediterranean.
The sapphire caseback reveals part of the RD821 automatic caliber, which is Geneva Seal certified and hand-finished to the highest standards. The movement itself is compact, allowing more space for the knights and dial architecture, yet still offers 48 hours of power reserve and runs at 4Hz.
Engraved on the back is a fitting line:
“Around this table, the bravest knights will gather as equals. They will set forth in search of adventure, righting wrongs, protecting the weak and humbling the proud.”
Key Specifications
Model: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights of the Round Table “The Enchanter Merlin” (DBEX1117)
Case: 45mm, 18K pink gold, sapphire front and back, water resistance 30m
Dial: 12 gold knights, 56 blocks of gold, enamel, glass and diamonds, Crystalium inserts
Movement: RD821 automatic, Geneva Seal, 172 parts, 33 jewels, 4Hz, 48h power reserve
Strap: White calf leather with quick release system
Price: 398,500 USD, limited to 28 pieces
Final Word
Many would argue that a piece like this is destined for a safe or a display. I disagree. Once you stop wearing watches to please others and start wearing them purely for your own enjoyment, the Excalibur Merlin makes sense. It is outrageous and excessive, yet it is also brilliantly executed.
It is not for everyone, and it is not meant to be. But if you are going to spend close to four hundred thousand dollars on a watch, you may as well buy one that entertains you every single time you look at it. On that measure, Merlin succeeds completely.
