Why Rugby Players Often Prefer Tool Watches
Unlike athletes in sports such as football or basketball, rugby players tend to gravitate toward robust tool watches. Dive watches, pilot watches, and integrated-bracelet sports watches dominate their collections.
This preference is hardly surprising. Rugby is a sport built on durability, teamwork, and physical resilience. The watches associated with rugby players often mirror those qualities: practical, mechanically robust, and understated in design.
Rugby is not a delicate sport. It is a game of collisions, endurance, and tactical intelligence played across eighty relentless minutes. The athletes who excel in it tend to share certain traits: discipline, resilience, and a quiet sense of confidence earned through years of physical and mental training.
Interestingly, the watches worn by rugby players often reflect those same values.
Unlike footballers or basketball stars who sometimes gravitate toward flamboyant diamond-set timepieces, rugby players tend to favor watches with a different character. Tool watches, integrated-bracelet sports watches, and robust dive watches appear again and again on their wrists. The common thread is not extravagance but substance.
As watch journalists, we find that fascinating. A wristwatch, after all, is rarely just an accessory. It becomes a small declaration of identity.
what watches do rugby players wear a timepieces of the rich and famous.
Below, we explore ten notable rugby players and the watches associated with them. Along the way we will also consider what these timepieces reveal about their owners and about the broader culture of rugby itself.
Antoine Dupont and the Precision of the Royal Oak
Antoine Dupont
Watch: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 15510ST
Brand: Audemars Piguet
Few players embody modern rugby intelligence as completely as Antoine Dupont. The French scrum-half is known for his extraordinary field awareness and ability to read a game several phases ahead. Watching him play often feels like observing a chess master moving pieces across a board.
Perhaps it is fitting, then, that Dupont has been spotted wearing the Royal Oak.
Designed by Gérald Genta and introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak effectively created the category of the luxury sports watch in steel. Its angular octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and integrated bracelet remain among the most recognizable shapes in watchmaking.
The modern 15510ST version represents the latest evolution of that design. Inside beats the in-house calibre 4302 automatic movement, offering a 70-hour power reserve and a level of finishing that collectors expect from one of Switzerland’s so-called “holy trinity” brands.
Retail pricing for the stainless-steel model sits around $27,000 to $30,000 depending on configuration. On the secondary market, however, demand has pushed prices dramatically higher , it often exceeding $50,000.
You might wonder: why has this watch become so desirable? Part of the answer lies in its balance. The Royal Oak is unmistakably luxurious, yet its brushed steel surfaces and sporty architecture prevent it from feeling ostentatious.
From a lifestyle perspective, the pairing with Dupont feels natural. His game is all about precision and efficiency, and the Royal Oak reflects a similar design philosophy.
Editorial note:
For collectors who store automatic watches in a cabinet or winder system, Royal Oak models generally perform best with moderate rotation settings. The modern calibre 4302 winds efficiently, so aggressive rotation programs are unnecessary.
Rotelux Compatibility Recommendations for the 15510ST (Calibre 4302 Movement) Watch Winder Settings:
- Winding Direction: Bidirectional (Both) winding.
- Turns Per Day (TPD): We recommend setting this between 650 or 800 TPD.
- Storage Precautions: The brushed bezel of the Royal Oak is extremely delicate and prone to scratches.
- We recommend using a microfiber cloth or a soft watch pillow in conjunction with the Rotelux to protect its iconic octagonal edges.
Mike Tindall and the Enduring Appeal of the Daytona
Mike Tindall
Watch: Rolex Daytona 116520
Brand: Rolex
The Daytona occupies a unique place in watch culture. Introduced in 1963 as a racing chronograph, it was initially far from the hottest watch in Rolex’s catalog. In fact, early examples struggled to sell.
History can be wonderfully ironic.
Today the Daytona is among the most coveted chronographs in the world. The reference 116520, produced from 2000 until 2016, marked a turning point. It was the first Daytona powered by Rolex’s in-house calibre 4130, a movement praised for its robustness and simplified architecture.
Former England rugby international Mike Tindall has been photographed wearing this particular model. It suits him.
The watch itself is not flashy. Stainless steel, black dial, clean lines. Yet anyone familiar with horology immediately recognizes its significance.
Originally priced around $10,000 when new, the 116520 now commands roughly three times that amount on the collector market. Demand remains strong, particularly for well-preserved examples.
From a stylistic standpoint, the Daytona communicates something interesting about the rugby mindset. It is a watch built for competition. A watch originally intended to time laps around racetracks.
In other words, a watch designed for people who care deeply about performance.
Rotelux Professional Fitting Recommendations
As the owner of this watch, Mike Tindall may need to account for the Rolex Calibre 4130 self-winding movement inside it. If you are configuring the settings for your watch winder, please refer to the following specifications:
- Movement: Calibre 4130 (the first in-house chronograph movement for the Daytona, extremely reliable).
- Winding Direction: Bidirectional (Both).
- Turns Per Day (TPD): Recommended setting is 650 TPD.
- Power Reserve: Approximately 72 hours.
Siya Kolisi and the Symbolism of the Aquaracer
Siya Kolisi
Watch: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Springboks Limited Edition
Brand: TAG Heuer
Siya Kolisi’s story carries emotional weight. As the captain who led South Africa to victory in the 2019 Rugby World Cup, he became a national symbol of unity and resilience.
The watch associated with him, an Aquaracer Springboks limited edition reflects that national identity.
The Aquaracer line itself traces its heritage back to TAG Heuer’s professional dive watches of the late twentieth century. Modern versions offer 300 meters of water resistance, unidirectional bezels, and luminous markers designed for underwater readability.
The Springboks edition was produced in a limited run and features subtle green accents referencing the South African team colors.
Compared with some of the high-horology watches mentioned earlier, the Aquaracer sits in a more accessible price bracket. Retail prices typically fall between $2,500 and $3,200 depending on configuration.
But value in watch collecting is not always measured by complexity or cost. Sometimes it lies in meaning.
For Kolisi and his supporters, this watch represents more than timekeeping. It represents a moment in sporting history.
For this limited-edition Aquaracer, its internal construction determines its performance on a watch tester:
Rotelux Compatibility Parameters
- Movement Type: This series typically features the Calibre 5 self-winding movement (based on the ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1).
- Winding Direction: Bidirectional winding.
- Tourets per Day (TPD): Recommended setting is 650 TPD.
- Power Reserve: Approximately 38 hours.
Marcus Smith and the Rise of the Modern PRX
Marcus Smith
Watch: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80
Brand: Tissot
Every so often a watch appears that captures the zeitgeist of a new generation of enthusiasts. In recent years, the Tissot PRX has become precisely that.
Originally inspired by a 1970s Tissot design, the modern PRX features an integrated bracelet, slim case profile, and clean dial aesthetics that echo the design language of much more expensive luxury sports watches.
Marcus Smith, the English fly-half known for his dynamic attacking style, has been seen wearing the Powermatic 80 version.Few watches have captured the current watch zeitgeist quite like the Tissot PRX.
It channels the rugged style of the 1970s, and the premium feel of its integrated bracelet makes it hard to believe this is a watch that costs less than $1000. England fly-half Marcus Smith chose the iconic “Ice Blue” dial not only because it looks great, but also because the Powermatic 80 movement inside offers an impressive 80-hour power reserve.
In a watch market where prices often start in the five-figure range, the $850 PRX proves one thing: top-tier style doesn’t have to come at a high price.
And perhaps that is part of its charm.
In a market where many watches feel aspirational or unattainable, the PRX remains refreshingly grounded.
Editorial note:
Movements like the Powermatic 80 with extended power reserves, it can remain unwound for several days without stopping. Collectors who rotate between multiple watches often find this feature surprisingly practical.
Rotelux Compatibility Parameters
If you are preparing a winding setup guide for the PRX, please refer to the following technical specifications:
- Movement: Powermatic 80 (based on ETA C07.111).
- Winding Direction: Bidirectional (Both).
- Turns Per Day (TPD): Recommended setting: 650–800 TPD.
Note: The PRX features an integrated bracelet with a fixed curvature. When placing the watch in the Rotelux winder, we recommend using an adjustable, flexible watch cushion to prevent the bracelet from being stretched excessively or becoming unstable.
Tom Curry and the British Identity of Bremont
Tom Curry
Watch: Bremont S300 RFU Limited Edition
Brand: Bremont
British watchmaking has experienced a modest renaissance in recent decades, and Bremont sits at the center of that revival.
The brand emphasizes durability, aviation heritage, and a distinctly British aesthetic. Its S300 diver is one of its most versatile models, it compact, rugged, and highly legible.
The RFU edition produced for England’s Rugby Football Union adds a layer of national symbolism.
Priced around £4,200, the watch occupies a niche between mainstream Swiss divers and high-end luxury pieces. Its hardened steel case and technical construction give it a reassuring sense of toughness.
And toughness, of course, is a quality no rugby forward can afford to lack.
Rotelux Compatibility Parameters
If you are setting up a watch winder for this watch, please refer to the following technical specifications:
- Movement: Modified Calibre BE-92AV (based on the ETA 2892-A2 architecture, chronometer-certified).
- Winding Direction: Bidirectional (Both) winding.
- Beats Per Day (TPD): Recommended setting is 650 TPD.
- Power Reserve: Approximately 38 hours.
Physical Characteristics: Features Bremont’s signature Trip-Tick® three-piece case construction. While extremely robust and shock-resistant, the middle case (Barrel) is typically treated with a DLC coating. When placing the watch in the Rotelux, ensure the watch cushions fit snugly against the sides of the case to prevent any minor metal-to-metal friction.
Sergio Parisse and the Simplicity of the Submariner
Sergio Parisse
Watch: Rolex Submariner 114060
brand: Rolex
The Rolex Submariner hardly requires introduction.
Originally developed in the 1950s as a professional dive watch, it has since become one of the most recognizable watches in the world. The reference 114060, produced between 2012 and 2020, represents one of the last no-date Submariners before the line expanded to slightly larger case dimensions.
Italian rugby legend Sergio Parisse has been seen wearing this model, and the choice feels appropriate.
The no-date Submariner strips the design down to its essentials. No cyclops lens. No calendar complication. Just a clean black dial and rotating bezel.
In watchmaking, simplicity often requires discipline. The same could be said for rugby.
Rotelux Professional Setup Recommendations
Since you operate a high-end watch brand, the settings for this watch on your winder are critical:
- Movement: Rolex Calibre 3130.
- Winding Direction: Bidirectional (Both).
- Turns Per Day (TPD): Recommended setting is 650 TPD.
- Storage Recommendations: Although the Submariner is an extremely robust tool watch, the 114060’s stainless steel bracelet and clasp may still develop fine scratches if they rub against hard objects during long-term storage. We recommend using Rotelux’s soft watch pillow.
Richie McCaw and the Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark
Richie McCaw
Watch: Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark
Brand: Tudor
That was the challenge faced by Tudor when it released the Black Bay Chrono Dark in 2019, a special edition created in partnership with the All Blacks. At first glance, the watch looks unmistakably purposeful. The entire case is finished in matte black PVD-coated stainless steel, immediately echoing the famous all-black rugby kit worn by the team. The effect is striking but controlled. Rather than flashy, the watch feels almost tactical, like a piece of equipment designed for performance.
Dan Carter and the Iconic TAG Heuer Monaco
Dan Carter
Watch: TAG Heuer Monaco chronograph
Brand: TAG Heuer
Dan Carter is widely regarded as one of the greatest fly-halves in rugby history. Precision kicking, strategic intelligence, and calm leadership defined his career.
The legendary All Black and World Cup star is often photographed in heritage pieces. He has been seen wearing the TAG Heuer Monaco chronograph (blue dial, ~$8,600) – a square, racing-inspired watch made famous by Steve McQueen. Carter also wore an 18k rose-gold Louis Vuitton Tambour (new model) while on ambassador duty. These choices (one Swiss racing icon, one luxury fashion brand) reflect Carter’s adventurous, high-profile image.
Rotelux Professional Recommendations
As your professional assistant, I have compiled the key specifications for this watch when using a watch winder:
- Movement: Calibre 11 (based on the SW300/ETA 2892 architecture).
- Winding Direction: Bidirectional (Both).
- Turns Per Day (TPD): Recommended setting is 650–800 TPD.
- Storage Tip: The Monaco’s square case is thick and angular. When placing it in the watch winder, ensure the watch cushion securely supports the strap to prevent the square case from shifting slightly due to an unstable center of gravity during rotation.
Maro Itoje and the Bold Presence of Panerai
Maro Itoje
Watch: Panerai Luminor Marina
Brand: Panerai
It is well known that Maro Itoje, captain of the England and Ireland Lions teams, has a keen interest in luxury watches. According to various sightings and reports, his collection reflects his preference for bold, iconic designs that align with his persona.
Some of the standout watches in his collection
Panerai Luminor Marina: Itoje is often seen wearing the Panerai Luminor Marina. Given his height of 6 feet 6 inches (approximately 1.98 meters), the Luminor collection’s substantial cushion-shaped case and iconic crown guard design suit him perfectly. The model he has been photographed wearing appears to be the PAM01312, a 44mm stainless steel watch featuring a black “sandwich” dial, a blue small seconds hand, and a date window.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: Like many elite athletes, Itogé owns a Royal Oak watch. He is reportedly wearing the black-dial version, similar to the model worn by French rugby star Antoine Dupont. The Royal Oak is renowned for its octagonal bezel and “Tapisserie” patterned dial, creating a more cohesive and industrial-chic contrast with the Panerai he wears.
Rotelux Professional Recommendations
The PAM01312 is powered by Panerai’s in-house P.9010 automatic movement, which features a winding mechanism that differs from earlier models equipped with ETA/OP movements:
- Winding direction: Bidirectional. The P.9010 movement is equipped with a bidirectional rotor, allowing it to effectively store energy whether rotating clockwise or counterclockwise.
- Recommended daily rotations (TPD): 800–950 TPD.
- Power reserve: 3 days (72 hours). Due to its dual mainspring barrels, the movement requires a certain level of winding efficiency; it is recommended to maintain at least 800 rotations per day to ensure a full, long-lasting power reserve.
Jonny Wilkinson and IWC Big Pilot's Watch
Jonny Wilkinson
Watch: IWC Big Pilot's Watch
Brand: IWC
Jonny Wilkinson CBE is a former English rugby union fly-half, widely regarded as one of the greatest players in the sport’s history. He famously kicked the winning drop goal in extra time to secure England’s 2003 Rugby World Cup title and has since become a prominent advocate for mental health, wellbeing, and sustainable living.
Jonny Wilkinson has a long-standing connection with IWC; he is not only a close friend of the brand but also a devoted fan of the Big Pilot collection. Features: A massive 46mm case, the iconic “onion-shaped” crown, a black dial, and a 7-day power reserve indicator at the 3 o’clock position.
Ideal Setting: Known for its ruggedness, precision, and high recognizability, this watch perfectly complements his image as a precise “kicking machine” on the rugby field.
For IWC’s iconic Big Pilot collection, featuring the in-house 51111 or 52110 long-power-reserve movements,
Rotelux Rotation Mode Settings
- Rotation Direction: Bidirectional (Both / Bidirectional)
The ingenuity of the Pellaton system lies in its ability to convert the oscillation of the rotor in any direction into winding energy. Setting the Rotelux to "Bidirectional Rotation" mode not only best aligns with the original design intent of the movement but also ensures more even force distribution on the internal pawl mechanism (woodpecker head). - Recommended Daily Rotations (TPD): 800–900 TPD
Although 650 TPD is theoretically sufficient to maintain operation, for a giant mainspring with a 7-day power reserve, 650 rotations may be on the verge of being insufficient, causing the power reserve indicator to gradually decrease. To ensure the mainspring within the bridge remains in the high-power reserve range (3 days or more), we recommend setting the Rotelux between 800 and 900 revolutions per day. This way, even if you occasionally remove the watch, it will remain fully wound while stored in a watch winder.
Watch Winders for Professional Sports Watches
Many of the watches worn by rugby players are automatic mechanical timepieces. Models from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Panerai, and TAG Heuer rely on wrist movement to stay wound.
For collectors who rotate between multiple watches, a quality watch winder helps maintain power reserve and keep timepieces ready to wear. Rotelux watch winders are designed to support a wide range of movements with precise rotation settings and quiet operation.
Final Thoughts: What Rugby Watches Tell Us
Looking across these examples, a pattern emerges.
Rugby players tend to gravitate toward watches that feel purposeful rather than decorative. Dive watches, pilot watches, and robust sports models dominate the landscape.
Is that surprising?
Perhaps not.
Rugby itself is a sport built on structure and endurance. Its athletes respect tools that perform reliably under pressure.
A watch, after all, is one of the few personal objects a professional athlete can carry from locker room to boardroom, from training ground to formal event.
And when chosen thoughtfully, it becomes more than a device that measures time.
It becomes a quiet reflection of character.
