TABLE OF CONTENTS
Jaeger-LeCoultre is a brand that rarely misses when it comes to combining technical brilliance with refined aesthetics. The new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 is another example of this philosophy in action. By bringing together two of the most admired complications in watchmaking, the perpetual calendar and the tourbillon, the manufacture demonstrates once again why it stands among the leaders of high horology.
The Master Grande Tradition LegacyMaster Grande Tradition
The Master Grande Tradition line has long served as the home for Jaeger-LeCoultre's most prestigious creations. Over the years, it has introduced watches featuring gyrotourbillons, minute repeaters, and even celestial displays. The new Calibre 985 continues this tradition, but with a refreshed design that feels more modern and more elegant while keeping the mechanical substance that has defined the collection.
Inside the Calibre 985 Movement
The movement itself, the Calibre 985, first appeared in 2013 inside the Master Grande Tradition Cylindrique. At the time, a perpetual calendar combined with a tourbillon was not nearly as common as it is today. Since then, many other maisons have produced similar offerings, from Vacheron Constantin to A. Lange & Söhne. Yet Jaeger-LeCoultre has chosen not to replace this movement but rather to refine the presentation around it. With 431 components, including 83 dedicated to the cylindrical flying tourbillon, the movement remains deeply impressive. Its cylindrical hairspring enhances accuracy and stability, reducing friction while ensuring isochronism. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a 45-hour power reserve. The automatic rotor, crafted from 22k rose gold, features an engraving of a medal awarded to Antoine LeCoultre, a subtle nod to the brand's long history of precision and innovation. The decoration is equally meticulous, with blued screws, Côtes de Genève, and hand-applied bevels.
Case Updates That Make a Big Difference
The new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 comes in two main case materials: platinum and pink gold. The dimensions are 42 mm in diameter and 13.27 mm in thickness, giving the watch a presence that is substantial but still wearable. Compared with the earlier model, the case has been significantly refined. Instead of a strictly traditional shape, the case now flows with more organic lines. The lugs are carefully integrated, and the sides feature a mix of polished accents and micro-blasted surfaces that add both depth and contrast. For those who want something even more lavish, the platinum model can be ordered with a baguette diamond-set bezel, which includes 72 diamonds totaling 3.4 carats. Each watch is delivered on a hand-stitched alligator leather strap, secured with a pin buckle, though one could easily argue that a deployant clasp would have been a better match for a watch of this stature.
Dial Details Worth Noticing
The dials follow a traditional layout for perpetual calendar tourbillon models, but with enough character to feel distinctively Jaeger-LeCoultre. The platinum version is paired with a deep sunray blue dial, while the pink gold version comes with a warm brown dial. Both feature a moonphase and day display at 3 o'clock, a date display at 9 o'clock, and a month and four-digit year at 12 o'clock. The red detail in the year display adds a welcome touch of visual balance. At 6 o'clock, the stepped aperture for the tourbillon creates a dramatic sense of depth, emphasized by a polished edge. The 20-second arc below the tourbillon may not be functionally necessary, but it serves as a playful detail, reminding the wearer of the cage's constant motion.
Price and Final Thoughts
The overall presentation is elegant, legible, and rich in detail. It demonstrates why this combination of complications has become so popular: it simply works, both visually and technically. With the updated case design and refined finishing, the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 feels more attractive and contemporary than its predecessor, while still carrying the gravitas expected from a Jaeger-LeCoultre grande complication.
Of course, such craftsmanship comes at a cost. While Jaeger-LeCoultre has not published an official retail price, the original Cylindrique was set at around 160,000 USD more than a decade ago. Considering inflation and the rising costs of haute horlogerie, one can reasonably expect the new models to fall somewhere between 180,000 and 200,000 USD, with the diamond-set version commanding an even higher price.
YOU MAY ALSO LIKE: Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the new Polaris Chronograph Ocean Grey Watch.